The Capital

The Knightsbridge address - Harrods is just around the corner - and elegantly refined interior make this townhouse hotel one of the best in London. And then there is the restaurant, the domain of Eric Chavot, which elevates The Capital to world class status. It is a discreet and eminently tasteful place, the furnishings are chic without being overly contrived, and the restaurant is equally civilised and understated. It isn't a large dining room, but the high ceiling, big windows, light-wood panelling and pale blue velvet curtains and chairs help keep it light and inject just the right amount of luxury. There is a bar with an equally appealing demeanour. Service is flawless, attentive to just the right degree, and the wine list is an exceptional piece of work, as lengthy as any encyclopaedia, and, although France is the focus, it does not ignore the rest of the world. The cooking is inspired by Eric's homeland - he hails from south-western France - and a strong classical French grounding is evident in the menu. This is not the whole story. First-class produce is skilfully and precisely transformed with a lightness of touch and a sensitivity to flavour into dishes with a modern soul and an eye for presentation. There is a Menu Dégustation or a fixed-price carte (particularly good value at lunch). A starter of pan-fried langoustine - perfectly fresh and beautifully cooked - and slow-cooked belly pork of outstanding flavour is topped with a potato espuma by the waiter in a piece of theatre, while main-course fillet of lamb with cumin juice and spicy couscous is both eye-catching and full of flavour. A light touch is evident at dessert stage too, with a coffee, chocolate and caramel 'melting pot' with Baileys ice cream, strong on technique but not overly rich in the eating.

Off Sloane St, beside Harrods
Nearest station: Knightsbridge

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