Rhodes W1 Brasserie

In the sort of high-profile spot near Marble Arch that only a celebrity chef can aspire to putting his name to, the Cumberland Hotel boasts a brace of Gary Rhodes operations. Not to be confused with the unapologetically high-toned Rhodes W1 Restaurant (see entry), the brasserie offers accessible entry-level food with a high feelgood factor, served in a buzzy venue defined by slick contemporary glamour and full-on colours. Gary Rhodes has long trumpeted a back-to-British-basics approach, and deals here in well-judged re-workings of crowd-pleasing brasserie classics. Sautéed lamb's kidneys on foie gras buttered toast with devilled sauce shows the house style, while main courses range from battered haddock with triple-cooked chips and home-made tartare sauce to slow-cooked rabbit in cider and grain mustard sauce teamed with tarragon-flavoured sweet onions, carrots and turnips, and buttered mushroom pappardelle. End on a high note with a classic raspberry soufflé with raspberry sorbet and sauce.