Rhodes Twenty Four

Towers of banking became uncomfortably close to towers of Babel with the onset of the credit crunch, though nothing about that unfortunate development inhibits the pleasure of a visit to Gary Rhodes' restaurant in the City of London clouds. Ascend by express lift, and prepare for panoramic bedazzlement. That there is bedazzlement of the culinary kind in evidence too can only enhance the location, and that there certainly is. Officially, this is traditional British cuisine in that the menu offers such manner of things as puddings (suet, rice or bread-and-butter), pies (both cottage and apple) and custard. That's only part of the story, as there's also crab raviolo - generously stuffed, bedded on baby leeks and sauced with frothy coral cream - lobster thermidor omelette, and buttered salmon with peas, white asparagus and chorizo (though the last is made in the Lake District). Where the traditional things are done traditionally, they are overwhelmingly successful, as in the gigantic mutton suet pudding with mashed swede, which comes with a gourmand's array of 3 sauce jugs - caper, mustard and mutton gravy. At dessert, a taste of lemon may encompass the Frenchified glazed tart and iced mousse, but also an exhilaratingly sour syllabub.

Please telephone for directions, see website
Nearest station: Bank/Liverpool Street

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