Rhodes Twenty Four

Curved floor-to-ceiling windows give great views at Gary Rhodes' restaurant on the 24th floor of what is still familiarly known as the NatWest Tower - now Tower 42. Some banquette seating is raised on the back wall, allowing 'tiered' viewing through the windows, and a fairly muted colour scheme doesn't detract from the cityscape. Gary Rhodes has been a champion of traditional British food throughout his career, and sure enough we have duck faggot on buttered potato with duck gravy, steamed mutton suet pudding, and treacle tart. But this is no nostalgia trip; a strong streak of invention runs through the menu too. Smoked eel joins foie gras in a terrine, wood pigeon is partnered by beetroot in a tart, and main-course roast loin of venison is accompanied by a pie of wild mushrooms and truffle and served with creamed butternut squash. Fish is a strength, judging by well-timed pan-fried haddock with a mussel and champagne sauce and champ, and if you can't decide on a pudding (perhaps a trio of plum - crumble, fool and ice cream) go for the signature plateful.