Ransome's Dock

The one-time ice cream factory beside a disused wharf - overlooking old moored-up barges and modern apartment developments - has been an easygoing neighbourhood restaurant for 20 years now. Martin and Vanessa Lam have built a reputation on excellent modish food, a corker of a wine list, and a cheerful atmosphere. The outdoor terrace is a bonus. Inside isn't exactly cutting edge, but no matter, for the vibrant Med-coloured walls and closely-set linen-clad tables make for a charmingly unpretentious setting. The kitchen's modern approach deals in high-quality, seasonal produce and generous, robust flavours rather than frou-frou presentation, with the carte bolstered by daily-changing specials. Morecambe Bay shrimps get the potted treatment among starters, followed by Dutch calves' liver with smoked bacon, red onions and colcannon, or perhaps poached wild sea trout with Pastis mayonnaise, baby fennel, samphire and Jersey potatoes.