Pearl Restaurant & Bar

Jun Tanaka is a very modern kind of chef - a multi-media approach has brought forth a book, innumerable television appearances, and a thousand-plus followers on Twitter. His restaurant is no less of the moment (despite opening in 2004). Situated in a smart five-star hotel but with its own entrance, Pearl makes an impact with its grand Edwardian proportions and glamorous interior designed to the nth degree. The 'Pearl' relates to the building's former life as the Pearl Assurance building, but pearls and glass beads duly feature, adding to the sense of glamour. Make time for a drink in the luminescent pearl-curtained bar, where there's a choice of over 40 wines by the glass. Jun's cooking is grounded in French classicism but takes contemporary strides, whilst ensuring his dishes are not overcomplicated and flavour is king; the food looks beautiful on the plate, too. The desire to impress is evident from the off with a superb amuse-bouche of green apple jelly topped with butternut squash purée, toasted pumpkin seeds and micro cress. Next up, a first-course mackerel fondant with horseradish, beetroot jelly and pickled beetroot candy delivers well-judged flavours and looks a picture on the plate. For main course there's all the luscious richness of lamb and truffle Wellington with confit rib, roast cauliflower, glazed shallots and pink garlic, or an impressive vegetarian dish such as ricotta agnolotti with butternut squash velouté, roast onion squash, grapes and chestnuts. There's no less invention and technical skill on display at the dessert stage either: custard tart with roasted Victoria plums and almond ice cream hits the spot. The service team do a fine job, too. Make sure you seek the advice of the knowledgeable sommelier to lead you through a roll call of excellent wines.