Nobu

This was the first London venture for Nobu Matsuhisa, with fanfares blaring when it opened in 1997 on the Metropolitan's first floor. A minimalist décor of clean, simple lines - black banquettes and much use made of light woods and stone - still fits the bill over a dozen years later. This is 'new-style' Japanese cooking, with some South American influences picked up on Nobu's travels. The latter can be seen in tomato and rock shrimp céviche, and a main course of anti-cucho Peruvian-style tea-smoked lamb. Elsewhere, luxuries abound (don't forget this is where celebs hang out): lobster tempura with creamy wasabi, Dover sole with black-bean sauce, Wagyu beef with caviar (and that's just a starter). Otherwise look for black cod with miso, now imitated the world over, crispy pork belly with spicy miso and ginger salsa, and sea urchin tempura. The kitchen's handling of top-quality raw materials is never in any doubt, timings are spot on and presentations attractive. Those who need help with ponzu, toban yaki or shiromi usuzukuri can call on helpful, knowledgeable staff for assistance.