Nahm

Its location in The Halkin Hotel, itself off Belgrave Square, signals that this is no run-of-the-mill Thai restaurant, a feeling confirmed by the glossy surroundings of a tan and gold colour scheme, marble floor, screens, subdued lighting and polished tables with quality appointments. Chef-patron David Thompson is Australian but has adopted the culture of Thai cuisine as his own, and his interpretation of that cuisine is second to none. An amuse-bouche gives a foretaste of what's to come: perhaps minced prawn and chicken bound in peanut sauce served on bite-sized pieces of pineapple and mango. A salad of Scottish scallops with coconut, Asian citron and lemongrass is a 'delicious' dish of distinct aromatic tastes sweetened by the coconut. Follow this perhaps with one of a number of curries: a green one of crispy sea bass with turmeric and basil, a vibrant, rich dish, superbly balancing sweet and sour, the fish itself beautifully cooked. That ingredients are out of the top drawer is never in any doubt, and each dish in its own way makes an impact, judiciously combining flavours and textures, as in a dessert of black sticky rice with sweet coconut cream, al dente chunks of sweetcorn and a crisply battered banana fritter. The menu helpfully gives English definitions of each dish, and more help is at hand from clued-up and attentive staff, who are happy to offer informed advice about both food and wine.