Bistrot Bruno Loubet

The Zetter is a trendy boutique hotel in oh-so cool Clerkenwell, an area well endowed with dining options, but few so totally on the money as BBL. Bruno Loubet returned to London after nine years in Oz and it has not taken long for him to remind us what we were missing. His classical training and experience in top kitchens (he was after all head chef at Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons) underpins his work here, albeit with the focus on hearty French bistro cooking. Large windows let the light flood in and the mood is buoyant. Start with pig's brawn and leek terrine with pomegranate dressing, or soused mackerel with watercress salad and some thin slices of buckwheat bread smothered in prawn butter. Presentation is pleasingly rustic, flavour to the fore. For main course, lamb epigram is three ways with excellent quality meat, served with smoked aubergine purée and fennel salad, and to finish, fig carpaccio comes with pistachio crumble and olive oil ice cream.