Aubergine

The cuisine previously won 3 AA rosettes. This award is temporarily suspended as there has been a recent change of chef. A new award will be in place, once our inspectors have completed their meal assessments cooked by the new kitchen team. The eponymous fruit figures large - technically aubergine is a fruit although it is used as a vegetable in cooking terms and might look out of place in your fruit bowl next to the apples - from the colour of the front canopy, the shape of the door handles, the pictures on the plates and as a motif on the cutlery, although it does not seem overly contrived or in your face. An impressive floral display at the entrance, oak floors, abstract art and generously sized tables laid with crisp white linen help create a calm and civilised dining room, where formal and attentive staff move smoothly between the tables. William Drabble has been head chef since 1998 and his modern French cooking continues to be based around high quality produce and shows regard for the seasons. Bread is a fine selection, including excellent black pudding, before the usual array of extras from amuse-bouche through to the stack of petits fours with the coffee. There is a menu gourmand, set lunch and a carte with around seven choices per course. First-course pithivier of crab is a stunning looking dish with an accompanying marinated carrot and tarragon salad, while main-course pan-fried halibut is served with smoked salmon velouté, wilted greens and a creamy sauce. Clementine soufflé is served with hot dark chocolate sauce which is poured at the table, and you can choose a selection of French and British cheeses from the trolley.

W along Fulham Rd, close to Chelsea and Westminster Hospital
Nearest station: South Kensington, Fulham Broadway

Find your way with AA atlases, books and maps
Plan a route to this location »  Aubergine, London sw10