Arbutus Restaurant

Just off Soho Square, Anthony Demetre and Will Smith's place has been serving up rustic French food with a bit of modish flair since 2006. It is one of London's little gems, with a pricing policy that seems positively generous when compared to others cooking at this level, and a pre- and post- theatre menu which is an absolute steal. And the wine policy of serving all the circa 50-strong bins in 250ml carafes is another consumer-friendly approach that should be applauded. The charming gun-metal façade is symptomatic of the understated nature of the place, the U-shaped room done out with a classy neutrality - darkwood tables, earthy colours, contemporary pieces on the walls. There's a bar at the entrance where a solo diner can feel at home. The cooking is simple enough, yet always makes an impression. The quality of the seasonal produce shines out in dishes such as a simple starter salad of heritage beetroot with fresh goats' curd and broad beans, or hand-chopped Scottish beef tartare with toasted sourdough bread. Main course sees saddle of rabbit served up with roast salsify, garlic leaves and a cottage pie made from the shoulder, or line-caught pollock with caramelised endive, curly kale and blood orange. Finish with the signature floating island with custard and pink pralines. (Check out sister restaurants Wild Honey and les Deux Salons - see entries.)>