Arbutus Restaurant

When Anthony Demetre and Will Smith's Soho restaurant opened its doors in 2006 it was straight away the talk of the town, with its mission to deliver hearty, top-level European comfort food at accessible prices. Four years down the line, the formula is still a winner: technically superb cooking founded on humble seasonal ingredients, an informal vibe and a set lunch menu at prices that are hard to believe. And offering all wines in a two-glass carafe to encourage experimentation is an inspirational idea. You could easily pass by its stealthy gunmetal façade among the film and TV companies at the Soho Square end of Frith Street, and the interior is similarly understated - it goes for a neutral modern take on a French bistro in calming tones of cream and dark brown, buttoned black banquettes and dark wooden chairs. Will Smith still orchestrates out front, delivering well-oiled professional service; in the kitchen, Anthony Demetre's impeccable modern bistro cooking deliberately targets gutsy, unvarnished flavours, prepared with obvious pedigree technique in intelligently simple combinations. Squid and mackerel 'burger' is a signature starter, served with parsley emulsion, pea shoots, razor clams and finely sliced baby squid. Main courses bring saddle of rabbit - 3 generous pieces delivered with a separate pot of shoulder meat made into a cottage pie, and a rich reduced jus with mustard seeds, or try 'pieds et paquets', a Provençal dish of lamb's tripe parcels and trotters with charlotte potatoes.

Exit Tottenham Court Road tube station, turn left into Oxford St. Left onto Soho St, cross over or continue around Soho Sq, restaurant is on Frith St 25mtrs on right
Nearest station: Tottenham Court Road

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