Built about 100 years ago as a private residence and guest house, this solid-looking property has views of the Cambrian Mountains and Brecon Beacons. It's relaxing and informal, with a large lounge for pre-dinner drinks and a nicely turned out dining room with mahogany furniture. Chef-proprietor Roger Stevens is assiduous about sourcing produce, organic and sustainable as much as possible, from within 50 miles and treats it with respect. His desire to let ingredients shine can be seen in a starter of caramelised scallops with pancetta on pea purée with lime dressing, and a main course of roast cannon of mutton in a Madeira reduction with a leek soufflé and root vegetables. An Eastern influence appears in roast salmon fillet lightly seasoned with five spice, accompanied by noodles and a stirfry of pak choi, spring onions and spinach, and among desserts may be lavender-scented pannacotta with berries poached in elderflower wine.