The White Hart Village Inn

A few minutes from the Roman settlement of Caerleon, the White Hart is a whitewashed village hostelry of ancient aspect, all low-slung windows, stone fireplaces and the kinds of dark brown sofas that have become the essential amenity in this setting. Cask-conditioned ales and a good selection of wines by the glass speak of a commitment to quality, the flowers are regularly refreshed, and staff in long black aprons ensure all runs with smooth professionalism, while maintaining the note of conviviality proper to a country pub. Regional produce is supplemented by fish deliveries from Brixham, and it all finds its way on to the enticing modern menus and daily-changing blackboards. Flash-roasted scallops with apple purée and a squiggle of caramel are presented on a shard of Welsh slate for visual dramatics. Attention to detail is appreciable throughout, not least in the timing of a fillet of sea bream on accurate, creamy hazelnut risotto with Parmesan. Fine steaks and beer-battered fish are top-drawer versions of traditional fare, or there may be a pairing of roast corn-fed chicken with black pudding. The individual mini-loaves of bread are spot-on too.