The mile-long drive leading to this impressive former stately home turned country hotel only serves to heighten expectation. Originally built in 1465 AD, it shouts history (albeit in a very dignified voice) from every mullion window, fireplace and old oak beam. In the baronial-style restaurant, the daily-changing, fixed-price and decidedly modern menu offers the likes of carpaccio of smoked eel with feta, watercress and baby beetroots, followed by supreme of pheasant with thyme-scented polenta and honey-roasted parsnips, or perhaps braised fillet of trout served with braised vegetables and a smoke salmon velouté. To finish, nutmeg egg custard with cherry compôte or bara brith pudding should hit the spot.