Built during the reign of George III, Verzon House is a solid, family-owned country mansion a couple of miles outside Ledbury. Enjoying commanding views from an elevated decked terrace of the level countryside extending to the Malvern Hills in the distance, it's a peaceful spot, the mood enhanced by the absence of over-formality once within the hotel walls. Two dining areas await: a brick-walled brasserie for daytime, and a pleasant, wood-floored room for evening meals. A menu of British 'tapas' dishes (as in pork pies, Scotch eggs and deep-fried squid with chilli jam) gives notice of the creativity of new chef Jason Orsi, and titles on the main carte are written in Italian. Confidently rendered dishes include a Tuscan-style minestrone with borlotti, risotto primavera with asparagus, cherry tomatoes, zucchini and shaved parmesan, and a half-poussin roasted in rosemary, with garlic-sautéed potatoes and ratatouille. A vanilla pannacotta with caramelised orange and raspberries is a light, summery way to finish.