This ivy-covered 17th-century inn, all oak beams, log fires, antique furniture, bold displays of flowers, dim wall lights and candles, is the setting for some thoroughly modish cooking. Seared Shetland scallops with pork scratchings and cauliflower purée, say, could precede pan-fried pork fillet wrapped in Parma ham served with Madeira-glazed braised cheek, cabbage and potato purée. Aylesbury duck, cooked just so and accompanied by apple sauce, is a signature dish, as are crêpes Suzette, flamed at the table, or choose something from the sweets trolley as it gets wheeled round. Service is quite formal in the old-school manner.