The Bear Hotel

The origins of this former coaching inn lie in the 15th century, as testified by the striking black beams in the restaurant. This soothing room, with its plain white walls hung with vibrant artwork, and upholstered chairs at tables set with crisp cloths and highly polished cutlery, is the setting too for some bright modern cooking. Crab and prawns are mixed in a cocktail, for example, and orange and kumquat marmalade gives a counterpoint to a terrine of duck confit, foie gras and honey-roast quail. Among main courses, expect pan-seared sea bass atop chorizo and basil mash with scallop roe butter, or roast rack of lamb with faggots, with a pudding along the lines of chilli-roast strawberries with dark chocolate tart.