La Potiniere

Keith Marley and Mary Runciman's unassuming small restaurant on Gullane's high street has a following that extends far beyond the ranks of golf widows who do lunch while their other halves hack around the world-renowned links. There are no airs and graces here: the comfortingly chintzy dining room exudes an old-school charm that makes no concessions to the ephemeral whims of fashion, in the same way that the cooking eschews faddish foams, espumas and jellies. Food miles are kept to a minimum, with exclusively local and Scottish suppliers duly name-checked on a menu of straightforward dishes. The couple both work the stoves and clearly have a solid grounding in the classics; since they are only catering to around 20 guests and the menu is restricted to a couple of choices at each stage, execution and timing are spot on throughout. First up might be a cheese millefeuille with plum compôte, pine nut salad and red wine dressing, followed by a soup - smoked salmon with crème fraîche and lemon, say - before a choice of meat or fish at main course stage. Opt for the former, and you could get seared fillet of beef with a horseradish and brioche crust, turnip fondant, truffle and cep mash, and Madeira and beef sauce, and end exotically with mango and coconut pannacotta with mango, banana and lime compôte and ginger ice cream.