Restaurant Nathan Outlaw

The jewel in the crown at the Marina Villa Hotel - set on the narrow streets of town and backing on to the River Fowey, with stunning views across the water to Polruan and out to sea - is this eponymous restaurant. The spacious hallway's stairs lead down to the lower-ground dining room, with its bar and lounge areas. Picture windows make the best of those views, while purple banquette seating or high-backed chairs provide the comforts, set to a backdrop of clothed tables, stylish cutlery and glassware and attentive, friendly service. Nathan, a Cornish phenomenon (previously at the Black Pig at Rock and more recently at St Ervan Manor, Padstow), opened his restaurant here back in February 2007 to showcase his fine pedigree. In competition with the views, the imaginative cuisine has eye appeal, too, the modern, intelligently simple approach delivering promised flavours and fine balance, driven by quality produce. Take lamb with garlic potatoes, young carrots and rosemary, or brill with leeks and mustard and brown shrimps, and to finish, perhaps a bitter chocolate fondant served with coffee ice cream. Ancillaries, like canapés, bread, amuse-bouche and pre-desserts all hit top form, too.

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Nearest station: Par

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