Fat Olives

The Murphys' long-running restaurant is housed in a converted fisherman's cottage near the harbour, and retains some of the feel of a private home. A bare wood floor and unclothed tables avoid over-formality, as does the cooking, which is nonetheless built on sharply defined modern British foundations with a southern European flavour. Fish and seafood show up well, from carefully timed scallops with butternut squash purée and pancetta, to baked bream served with an accurately rendered risotto of brown shrimps, capers and lemon. An unadorned chocolate mousse baked in a ramekin is crisp on top and soft inside, made with high-powered chocolate, or you might opt for a thoroughgoing study in ginger, which involves a sponge pudding with matching ice cream and ginger beer jelly.