Sangsters might have the unassuming look of a small seaside village restaurant, but chef-patron Bruce Sangster raises the operation to the level of a dining destination with his pedigree cooking. On the supply side, the 'local is best' mantra means Scottish materials are key; crab from Kyle of Lochalsh, Ross-shire diver scallops, Glen Isla venison - it is all hauled in and brought together in precisely-crafted cooking that takes a sure-footed modern line, and with just 28 covers to cater for, the kitchen stays clearly focused. Wife Jackie keeps everything ticking along at just the right pace in the intimate dining room, where local art adds splashes of colour to a light and uncluttered décor. Expect dishes that sparkle with imagination and flair - Thai fishcakes with spiced tomato jam and an orange and cardamom reduction, say, followed by seared medallions of monkfish with a stew of butter beans, basil and tomato, and red pepper essence. Desserts shine too, in the form, perhaps, of Valrhona chocolate torte served with poached pear, hot fudge sauce and orange yoghurt ice cream.