Norton House Hotel

Tucked away in 55 acres, Norton House was built in 1840, with liver-coloured marble pillars, an oak-panelled hall, and a gallery on its half landing acting as reminders of its age. Extensions and updating place the hotel very much in the 21st century, with a spa and health centre among its attractions. Another is dining by candlelight in Ushers restaurant where Scotland's best produce is skilfully and imaginatively treated. West Coast scallops are seared and accompanied by truffled gnocchi, morels and artichokes, and Borders roe deer comes with Savoy cabbage, Jerusalem artichoke, nuts and juniper. The kitchen is clearly in touch with what appeals to modern palates, serving seared foie gras with rhubarb and gingerbread, and woodcock with beetroot, apple and onions, and Puy lentils. Dishes can be vividly flavoured without being overly complicated: lasagne made with langoustines, pork cheeks, chocolate and white truffle, say, or a main course of pan-fried John Dory, its timing of pinpoint accuracy, with wild leeks, morels, white asparagus and nettles. Like the rest, pudding descriptions sound straightforward but mask the skill that goes into their making, choices typically including rhubarb crumble soufflé with matching sorbet, or rich chocolate tart with Jaffa ice cream and orange sponge.