Kinnaird

It is easy to lose oneself in the grounds of this 7,000-acre estate of prime Perthshire countryside. Don't, though, miss dinner. The imposing baronial mansion is built on a grand scale and its position overlooking the wooded valley of the River Tay is breathtaking. The public rooms of the house are traditionally furnished with fine antiques, an impressive collection of art and inviting lounges with roaring log fires. The dining room is wonderfully plush, with ornate Italian frescoed walls, marble fireplace, a central chandelier and views out on to the garden through the huge bay windows. Jacket and tie are required at dinner, but with the formal service and grand scale of the place, that doesn't seem entirely out of keeping. Despite the arrival of a new head chef in the kitchen, the style of food remains focused on local produce and puts a modern spin on classically-based ideas. There is a Tasting Menu and carte, backed up with an excellent wine list. Roasted breast of quail comes with crispy leg and cardamom potato in an attractively presented and well balanced first course, while main-course sea bass is poached in vanilla oil and served with baby carrots, Swiss chard and black olive and potato purée. Hot orange and Grand Marnier soufflé with vanilla nougat ice cream and honeycomb makes for a distinguished finish.

From A9 N take B898 for 4.5m. Hotel on right
Nearest station: Dunkeld

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