Sienna Restaurant

The Browns' high-street restaurant might look like a teashop from the outside, but that wholly belies the seriousness of its intent. Catering for just 15 covers, it's a classic two-hander, run out front by Elena Brown with grace and skill, while Russell cooks up a storm out back. The restful décor, with its eponymous colour scheme, helps to ensure a harmonious experience throughout. That is helped by cooking of rare directness and integrity - no head-scratching concept food here - and there is a palpable determination to get each dish absolutely right. It takes skill to make a starter of roast breast and confit leg of pigeon with broad beans so ethereally light, but so it is. Fish main courses, such as a double-bill of impeccable John Dory and the sweetest scallops, gently supported with a light-touch herb butter sauce, show up well, too. The invention doesn't flag at dessert stage either, as witnessed in a stunning caramelised peach and tonka bean cheesecake with almond praline and peach sorbet. Incidentals such as bread, canapés and petits fours are all up to snuff.

Near top of town rdbt in Dorchester
Nearest station: Dorchester

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