Jan and Freddies Brasserie

The privileged residents of Dartmouth and its many tourists are certainly spoiled for choice these days when it comes to quality eating. This smart modern brasserie with its glamorous lighting and mirrored interior is a short hop, as are most things, from the River Dart. Chef Richard Hilson trained under Michael Caines at Gidleigh Park on Dartmoor (see entry, Chagford), and brings a level of finish to the dishes here that you may not quite be expecting. Fine local ingredients are the foundation for contemporary classics such as confit duck leg with roasted shallots and apple salad, a cheese bavarois made with Harbourne Blue, a blue goats' cheese from Totnes, served with tomato compôte and walnuts, and mains like Devon lamb hotpot, or fish casserole with chorizo and baby onions, its sauce made of roasted spider crab. Desserts run a gamut from brioche-and-butter pudding with Devon cream to espresso-drenched affogato.