Apicius

Tim Johnson is an example if ever there was one of a hands-on chef, and lucky old Cranbrook is the beneficiary of his endeavours. Apicius was a Roman 'gourmet' - to put it politely - and with menu covers from some of the world's top restaurants adorning the walls of the restaurant named in his honour, it is clear that passion for good food runs deep here. On the craggy main street in the heart of the village, the setting is charming enough, with the small single-room painted white, the tables neatly draped in white linen. Given the size of the place, and the abilities of the chef, booking in advance is most certainly advisable. What turns up on the plate is supremely well-judged, with clarity of flavour to the fore, and judiciously sourced produce at its core. Ingredients can be as humble as the good old herring, soused and served warm with new potato salad, beetroot purée and horseradish cream, or as well-heeled as pan-fried foie gras, perfectly partnered with a crab boudin blanc, pain d'épice and apple purée. Among main courses, roast and confit Challan duck comes with braised Puy lentils, pancetta and celeriac purée, while black truffle linguini with baby spinach and roast Provençal vegetables is a veggie main course of distinction. Iced apple mousse with cider cream, apple jelly and Calvados float is a dessert with allegiances on both sides of the Channel. With a warm and professional approach to the service to boot, Apicius is a real gem.