Apicius

This small restaurant is named after a famous Roman gastronomic text, a choice which perhaps demonstrates the owners' all-encompassing passion for food. Tucked away in the narrow streets of this pretty Kent town, Apicius delivers first-class cooking in a glass-fronted, timber-clad building dating back to 1530. Low-beamed ceilings and old timbers are teamed with high-backed chairs, lightwood floorboards and crisp white tablecloths to make an intimate and relaxed setting for some truly accomplished cuisine. In the kitchen, with a support team of one, Timothy Johnson creates dishes that are led by quality seasonal ingredients in clear-flavoured, refined and well-presented dishes that reflect high skill, meticulous workmanship and plenty of creativity. The compact, fixed-price menus take a modern approach to classic combinations at unexpectedly reasonable prices. A starter of baked mackerel fillet has succulent flesh and is served with beetroot and mozzarella and quenelles of balsamic ice cream, and a main course fillet of brill is deftly combined with roasted artichokes, Savoy cabbage, roasted tomatoes, oven-dried tomatoes and a white onion purée. Apple Tatin is a modern interpretation of a classic dish, with cider cream served in a glass and a delicate green apple sorbet accompanying the deconstructed tart. Service, led by Faith Hawkins, is personal, friendly and attentive.

In town centre, opposite Barclays Bank, 50yds from church
Nearest station: Staplehurst

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