Apicius

Among the narrow streets of a well-heeled Kent town, a small restaurant goes quietly about its business in a way that should be enshrined as a template for superb food at sensible prices. Chef-proprietor Tim Johnson manages to put together his compact menus at prices that are nothing short of miraculous. With just a half-dozen or so tables in a low-beamed room fitted out with pale wooden floorboards and stylish high-backed chairs, dining doesn't come much more intimate. The menus read well and let the ingredients do the talking, helped along by a chef with a confident mastery of combinations and top-level technical skills; Tim knows his business, having worked with the likes of Nico Ladenis. There's a lively modern creativity evident in classic combinations such as a starter of crab pannacotta with crab bouillon, tomato fondue and guacamole. Main courses aim equally high with poached and roast rump of lamb with French beans, roast garlic and sweet potato purée. Desserts feature the likes of glazed milk chocolate mousse with basil sorbet and mandarin cream. Service, led by Faith Hawkins, is personal, attentive and knowledgeable.

In town centre, opposite Barclays Bank, 50yds from church
Nearest station: Staplehurst

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