The Park restaurant

A sweeping tree-lined avenue leads to Lucknam Park, a top-flight country-house hotel in 500 acres of primped gardens and parkland. As soon as you're inside the portals of this luxurious 18th-century mansion, you are bathed in an ambience of pure indulgence. In an interior slathered with oil paintings, antiques and opulent fabrics, the house's former ballroom is the venue for fine dining - an appropriate setting where swagged silk curtains frame views over the immaculate lawns, and crystal chandeliers hang from a blue sky mural above a coffee and cream décor; formal service is as polished as the surroundings. Hywel Jones is a formidably talented chef who draws on a classical background to conjure menus overflowing with modern flair and style. A series of perfectly-presented, elegant dishes with spot-on timing starts off with roast Scottish diver-caught scallops with cod brandade fritter, marinated baby carrots and tomato and cumin vinaigrette. A main course of loin of Brecon venison is served with the subtle textural and flavour contrasts of pumpkin and sage risotto, spiced cherries and red wine sauce. The meal finishes with the technical fireworks of a fine banana tart with a cylinder of banana mousse, salted caramel ice cream, fresh popcorn and popcorn foam.