The Three Chimneys

In a location to restore the soul, Three Chimneys is housed in an original stone crofthouse on the shore of Loch Dunvegan, one of Skye's many almost mystical landscapes. In the little low-ceilinged dining room, simplicity is all, the bare stone walls, sturdy beamed fireplaces and polished wood tables all contributing an air of homely intimacy, while peek-a-boo views of the loch through the small windows are a delight at sunset. The produce that turns up on the fixed-price menus is never less than superb, with dishes changing daily in celebration of it, in a style that takes as its bedrock finely tuned traditional Scottish cooking, but with a modern approach. The result is skilful combinations with clear, crisply etched flavours. Seared breast of Perthshire wood pigeon comes with accompaniments of Ayrshire bacon, pearl barley, turnip, kale and game jus to make a perfectly composed first course that delivers more straightforwardly than its rollcall of ingredients might suggest. Don't miss the seafood cookery, though, on show in a brilliant main course of grilled Mallaig halibut crusted with pine nuts, teamed with flawlessly timed Sconser scallops, layered roots and a dramatically rich claret velouté. Dishes may change daily around it, but the famous hot marmalade pudding with Drambuie custard has earned its place as a long stayer, or there may be Skye whisky and lemon parfait with grapefruit, poppyseed tuiles and aniseed brittle - a complex but arresting array. When the amuse-bouche alone might be a serving of brandy-laced Skye lobster bisque, you know you're going to get looked after.

5m W of Dunvegan take B884 signed Glendale. On left beside loch
Nearest station: Kyle of Lochalsh

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