The Rockfish Grill & Seafood Market

Their mantra, 'fish so fresh tomorrow's is still in the sea', fits the bill perfectly at this lively Clifton seafood bistro. Brainchild of Mitch Tonks, fishmonger, chef and champion of all things piscine (sister venue in Dartmouth - see entry), Rockfish is a likeable place with an easy-going vibe. There are pictures of fish and fishermen on the walls, pale deck-like floorboards, shelves stacked with wine, and the buzz of an open kitchen. Great supply lines to the south coast fishing ports (especially Brixham) deliver sea-fresh daily landings that are more often than not simply chargrilled without any unnecessary fiddling about. Start with Cornish native oysters (from Falmouth), then move on to wild black bream fillet (served with herbs and garlic) or roasted Devon ray (with sherry and capers). Check out the seafood market next door.