The Angel Hotel

Clad in deep green creepers and purple-pink wisteria, the Angel looks as though it ought to be out in the country somewhere, but stands in fact in the historic town square of Bury St Edmunds. It's a former coaching-inn of course, and once had the pleasure of feeding and watering Charles Dickens, but has been brought boldly up to date with a pine-floored restaurant called The Eaterie, from whose bright, airy ambience you can enjoy a view of the nearby cathedral. Mediterranean-influenced brasserie food is the stock-in-trade, embracing crostini of cannellini beans, cavolo nero and prosciutto or pan-roasted squid dressed in chilli and lemon among starters, with perhaps sea bass to follow, served with chorizo and cime di rapa risotto and tomato salsa. The dishes lack nothing in authentic vibrancy, but there's also unabashed Anglo offerings such as steak and chips with peppercorn or red wine sauce, and desserts include sticky toffee pudding as well as vin santo ice cream with biscotti.