Flagstone floors, oak panelling and open fires are reminders of the age of this former coaching inn, established over 400 years ago, when it had stabling for a whopping 100 horses. The restaurant has been given a contemporary makeover, and the cooking is as up to date as the surroundings. There's something comforting about some of the main courses - halibut poached in red wine served with crushed potatoes and chargrilled leeks, say, or roast rib-eye with port sauce, horseradish mash and wild mushrooms - although there may also be crab spring rolls with tomato chutney, or duck and Parma ham confit with rhubarb jelly, followed by braised then roast pork belly in a cider jus with apple choucroute and celeriac purée. Go out in style with glazed orange tart with Pimm's jelly.