The British Isles may sometimes feel carpeted with golfing and spa hotels, but when they come as stylish as this one, it's hard to resist. The Carden Park, owned by the De Vere group, is a redeveloped mock-Tudor place set amid acres of rolling golf course and parkland, boasting a vast, split-level restaurant called Redmonds. A mixture of leather armchairs and smart wicker chairs, together with unclothed tables and wood blinds, makes for a light contemporary feel, and the food does pretty much the same job. Cod brandade fritters with parmesan custard, tomato emulsion and red basil shoots might set the ball rolling, with crisp-skinned duck breast and energetically seasoned bubble-and-squeak to follow. Finish with good old sticky toffee pudding and butterscotch sauce.