Old Vicarage Hotel and Restaurant

Within two acres of gardens in the lush Shropshire countryside, the Old Vicarage is a delightful Edwardian house which these days earns its crust as a smart country-house hotel. Among its many charms is the Orangery restaurant, a smartly done out space with linen-clad tables, a sunny demeanour (enhanced even further when the sun is shining), and three orange trees taking pride of place. It's a pleasant spot for some sharp contemporary cooking. What appears on the plate is broadly modern European in scope and is based on excellent produce, a good deal of it from the local area. Start, perhaps, with roasted scallops served with salt-cod beignets and a tomato and shallot vinaigrette, or maybe warm wild rabbit in pastry with piccalilli flavours and mustard jus gras. Next up, saddle of lamb comes with some of its shoulder meat, slowly braised, plus thyme potatoes and a green olive purée, or go for butter-poached brill with barley and snails, hazelnuts and garlic cream. Flavour combinations are well judged, not least in a dessert of caramelised pear with an almond clafoutis, pear sorbet and ginger sauce. The daily Market Menu offers terrific value at both lunch and dinner.