Set in lovely landscaped gardens on the outskirts of Bolton and close to the Lancashire hills, this handsome country house was built on the fruits of the textile industry and now blends contemporary style with period features. The dining room goes for a sharp modern look involving polished pine floors, claret-hued walls hung with gilt-framed pictures, and unclothed darkwood tables. The kitchen deals in well-tuned English cooking with plenty of interesting touches and a clear emphasis on local ingredients. A pressing of free-range chicken, leeks and prunes is teamed with home-made piccalilli, chicken 'scratchings' and Armagnac syrup, while main course serves up pork belly and Bury black pudding (the best there is if you ask a local), with carrot purée, king scallops, creamed potato and pancetta crackling. A well-made crème brûlée rounds things off with aplomb.