Deanes Restaurant

Michael Deane's fertile culinary imagination keeps him up there in the top flight of Ireland's chefs. The refurbished flagship of Deane's Belfast empire occupies a prime city centre spot, and there's no missing it: his name stands two metres high on steely blue columns fronting the ground floor of the Howard Street building. Conveniently round the corner is the Deane's Vin Café, a bistro and deli in Bedford Street, and the Deanes at Queens bar and grill is a 10-minute walk away opposite the university. Perfect, then, for a hands-on approach to overseeing all three operations. The open-plan interior of Deanes goes for a cool metropolitan look in gunmetal greys and charcoal, with wooden floors, tasteful modern art, black leather and dark wood seating and crisp linen to complete the picture. The modish open kitchen keeps diners entertained as the brigade goes about its business: calm and discipline reign, while smartly-attired staff deliver well-informed, relaxed service. The cooking lets high quality ingredients speak for themselves, with serious levels of skill that draw out amazing flavours in innovative, thoughtful combinations. The menu reads well and steers clear of silly fads to deliver consistent quality. Rare roast Irish veal is the star in a salad of wild mushrooms, butternut squash and truffle pecorino, with all flavours standing clearly to attention. Next up, free-range chicken breast is served in ballotine form with macaroni gratin, deeply-flavoured cep cream, braised cos lettuce and herby roasting juices. Desserts end on a high note - take, for example, the flavours and textures of mango mousse and jelly with pink peppercorn meringue and lime ice cream. Deanes has carved a niche for itself as one of the city's places to be seen, so advance booking is a sound idea.

At rear of City Hall. Howard St on left opposite Spires building
Nearest station: Great Victoria Street

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