Darroch Learg Hotel

'The oakwood on the sunny hillside' is a reasonably accurate translation of the name, for those whose knowledge of old Gaelic isn't up to snuff. A Victorian country residence in the heart of Royal Deeside, it is indeed perched on a lushly wooded hill, and has been in the Franks family for the past forty years or so. Inside is as plush as can be, with a flawlessly smart dining room that extends into a refreshing conservatory space. A fairly traditional culinary philosophy nonetheless draws on some modern technique and makes the most of the provender of north-east Scotland, from the legendary Arbroath smokies to incomparable Highland raspberries in the season. Dinner might begin with wood pigeon en croûte, dressed with spiced pear chutney, or perhaps smoked haddock in a raviolo with its own velouté. Aberdeen Angus beef fillet is treated with fitting dignity as one main course, with accompaniments of ox tongue, potato gratin and a relish of beetroot and horseradish. The finale may be sticky toffee pudding with caramel sauce, banana, and rum and raisin ice cream. A six-course tasting menu offers the option of avoiding having to make choices.

On A93 at the W end of village
Nearest station: Aberdeen

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