Andrew Fairlie @ Gleneagles

Gleneagles is a huge and imposing hotel of considerable class, one that is big enough and bold enough to host a G8 summit and the Ryder Cup. Within its walls are many dining options, including the Strathearn Restaurant (see entry), but the star attraction is an independent business located on the ground floor, open only for dinner, and catering for the well-heeled, five-star international clientele - Andrew Fairlie. The elegant dark-panelled walls, bespoke artworks by Archie Frost, floor to ceiling silk drapes and banquette seating sumptuously covered in rich fabrics with a stylish leaf motif make for an eminently civilised space despite the lack of natural light. Tables are well spaced, laid with crisp white linen, high quality glassware and crockery, and beautifully lit with chic lamps. Service runs with precision and gentle jazz music plays in the background. Andrew Fairlie is a class act and this room in this hotel is a fitting place for him to deliver his style of refined and intricate French-focused cooking. A dégustation menu and menu du marché are alternatives to the carte and on each first-class produce is used to create dishes underpinned by classical French cooking but elevated skywards by superb technique and intelligent, creative ideas. The simple menu descriptions belie the complexity and immaculate presentation of what is to follow - dishes dazzle and impress. Scallops from the Isle of Skye are pan-fried with precision and partnered with braised pork cheeks and sweet potato purée among starters, or there is home-smoked lobster with lime and herb butter. Main-course pork comes as fillet, cheek, belly and black pudding, and apple as soufflé, sorbet, crumble and parfait among desserts.

From A9 take Gleneagles exit, hotel in 1m

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