Andrew Fairlie @ Gleneagles

Gleneagles is a name that has long been synonymous with golf, but these days, thanks to Andrew Fairlie, it is also associated with world-class dining. Operating as an independent business on the ground floor of this imposing, classy hotel, the restaurant, open only for dinner, produces refined, intelligent and intricate cooking. As the first ever Roux Scholarship winner, and having trained under the legendary Michel Guérard, it is perhaps not surprising that Fairlie's inspiration is the South West of France, and, of course, the superb produce of his native Scotland. The elegant dark-panelled walls, floor-to-ceiling silk drapes and banquettes sumptuously covered in rich fabrics with a stylish leaf motif, and bespoke artworks by Archie Frost, create a smart and stylish space. Service is highly polished, the welcome warm and genuine. Menus du marché and dégustation are available if all on a table are agreed, otherwise the à la carte offers a choice of five at each course and brings plenty of pleasures along the way. Amuse-bouche such as pumpkin and hazelnut velouté with sherry and mushroom espuma reveals the sheer technical skill and deftly handled flavours that await. First-course foie gras ballotine is perfectly partnered with an almond jelly, fig purée and divinely light brioche, and main-course fillet of wild venison comes with a wintery mix of roots and fruits, including beetroot, pumpkin, salsify, apples and pears. Presentation is stunning throughout, not least at dessert, where no holds are barred in the making of a dish of caramelised banana with peanut butter mousse, with the addition of space dust bringing a tingle to the tongue. The wine list, and sommelier, do justice to the food.

From A9 take Gleneagles exit, hotel in 1m

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