The Golden Lion Inn

It's eight years and counting for Michelle and Francois Teissier, who took over this inviting village pub in 2003. So many things contribute to its traditional feel - the low wooden beams and stone walls, the winter log fire, the Art Deco prints and Tiffany lamps, not to mention the paintings by Devonian and Cornish artists. And there's the bar, of course, where locally brewed Otter ales are the order of the day. Chef/patron Franky (as everyone calls him) trained in classical French cooking at a prestigious establishment in the Loire Valley, a grounding that accounts today for his rustic French, Mediterranean and British menus. Their delights may include moules marinière; chunky fish soup; coq au vin; magret de canard with oriental plum sauce; grilled goat's cheese with Italian ham; and steak and kidney pudding. From the specials selection look for chicken Breton with leeks, venison pie, braised pheasant, and fresh fish and seafood, your choice of which, given that the genteel seaside town of Sidmouth is just down the road, will depend totally on that day's catch - cod, hake and sea bass are all candidates. For vegetarians there's likely to be vegetable lasagne; deep-fried Brie with cranberry sauce; and butter bean cassoulet. Tempting white and granary bread sandwiches are filled with roast beef; chicken and mayonnaise; home-made gravadlax with honey and mustard dressing; or fresh Lyme Bay crab. The Sunday lunch menu (half price for children) offers roast West Country beef with Yorkshire pudding; roast lamb with mint sauce; and winter vegetable crêpe. As Michelle sums up: "With a menu that changes seasonally, we're lucky that Devon offers such good quality and variety of produce." Outside there is a grassy beer garden and terracotta-walled terrace area with tumbling grapevines. On summer evenings you can listen to jazz.