The Harris Arms

Not far off the A30 just before Devon turns into Cornwall, this 16th-century inn has a string of awards going back the best part of a decade. It's an accessible spot for honest food with substance and style and certainly lives up to its promotional strapline: 'Eat real food and drink real wine', the last part picking up on owners Rowena and Andy Whiteman's spells running vineyards in France and New Zealand. You can therefore be confident of an extensive list of wines that you probably won't find in supermarkets. In the bar the real ales are from Devon - Bays Best, Otter Ale and Holsworthy Tamar Sauce; so too is Sam's Poundhouse real cider. The menu is very much locally sourced, from Port Isaac fresh fish to West Country artisanal cheeses. Sample starters from the carte include slow-cooked pork cheeks with sweet potato and mushroom hash, and sage and cider sauce; and olives with feta cheese and bread, while main dishes continue the emphasis on good ingredients with crispy confit of duck, haricot bean and chorizo ragout with gratin potato and red wine sauce; and roast lamb rump with rosemary and garlic sauce. Fish, game, vegetarian and other dishes are chalked up daily and pub classics, such as beer-battered fish and chips, get a look in too. Enjoy a plate of tapas or open griddled steak sandwich on ciabatta outside on the decked patio and admire the view of Brent Tor and its village church in the distance. You may even catch a glimpse of 'The Beast of Portgate', otherwise known as Reg, the pub's large strawberry blonde cat, and Jerry the cockerel and his harem of hens. Booking for meals may be required.