This much-feted country inn exemplifies owner Charles Inkin's passion for 'the simple things, done well'. The ethos is applied to food, wines, beers and en suite bedrooms. In the bar are deep leather sofas surrounding a newspaper-strewn table and open fire. Food is served in rambling bare-floored rooms where original features, including an Aga, are teamed with tasteful modern touches. Set on the edge of the Brecon Beacons, the Griffin draws much of its ingredients from the surrounding area, while the garden keeps up a steady flow of organic produce. The all important lunchtime menu includes Gorwydd Caerphilly ploughman's with home-made soda bread and pickles, or Welsh pork and leek sausages. The freshest seafood could feature wild halibut fillet with young spring vegetables and fresh creamed morels. Other mains include rack of Herdwick lamb, shepherd's pie and carrot purée, and oak roast salmon on crushed Witchill potato and spinach. Quality draught beers, 20 wines by the glass and beer tasting with the breweries complete the experience.